Basic Guide to Choosing a Rifle Scope
Choosing a rifle scope can be a difficult decision. Whether you are a novice who is in the market for your first rifle scope, or a pro hunter who is looking to upgrade your rifle scope, choosing between the selection of riflescopes on the market can be difficult.
With so many different options available and technical jargon and special features to consider, it can be easy to end up with a riflescope that isn’t fit for purpose.
Our Basic guide to choosing a rifle scope below can give you the info to ask as you make your decision on choosing a rifle scope that will be fit for your purpose.
Magnification is how much closer the target appears than what is seen with the naked eye.
If a scope’s magnification is 8X that means you can see EIGHT TIMES closer than the naked eye. But how much magnification do you need?
Some people would say, “buy as much magnification as you can”.
That’s not always the case.
In fact, if you buy too much magnification, not only have you wasted your hard-earned money but you may not even use it. Magnification should be based on your use.
- Do you use your rifle primarily for target shooting (up to 100 meters)? Get a magnification between 1-4x.
- Target shooting (up to 200 meters), stalking large game, or hunt in closed landscapes (forests, mountains)? Get a magnification between 5-8x.
- Target shooting (beyond 200 meters) or hunting in open landscapes (deserts, fields, etc.)? Get a magnification between 9-12x.
To find how much magnification a scope has, look at the first number (or range of numbers) before the x.
For example, if a scope says 2×30, that means the magnification is 2x. What if a scope says 3-9×40? That means the magnification is 3-9x.
You might be wondering: what’s the difference between 2x and 3-9x?
Besides the amount of magnification, the main difference between them is the type of magnification. There are two types of magnification, Fixed and Variable Power which is covered in the next section.
Fixed power means that your scope uses only ONE magnification. (Like 2×30).
On the other hand, variable power means that your scope uses MORE than one magnification. (Like 3-9×40.)
But the question is, which one should you use?
A variable powered scope allows you to shoot in a variety of environments and situations.
If you plan on shooting from only one distance, then opt-in for fixed powered scope.
The objective lens is the lens located at the end of the scope and is responsible for light transmission.
Generally, the bigger the objective lens, the brighter and clearer your image will be. That being said, should you get a scope that has A LOT of objective lens? Not really.
The reason?
Buying a scope that has too much objective lens could be harmful by adding excess weight, requires taller scope rings, and makes your scope more prone to sunlight reflection. (Which gives off your shooting position).
So how much objective lens should you get?
- If your firearm has low recoil, you’re using it for close range hunting, and have a low power scope, then get 28mm & under.
- If your firearm has quite a bit of recoil, you’re using it for low light hunting, and have a high power scope, then get 30 – 44mm.
- If you’re a long-range shooter or using high magnification in low light, then opt-in for 50mm & up.
You can find how much objective lens a scope has by looking at the number after the x.
For example, if a scope says 2×30, that means the scope has a 30mm objective lens.
A lens coat is an invisible coat that reduces glare and enhances the sight.
There are 4 basic lens coating types:
- Coated: One layer on at least one surface.
- Fully-Coated: A single layer on all exterior glass surfaces.
- Multi-Coated: Several layers on at least one surface.
- Fully Multi-Coated: Several layers on all exterior glass surfaces.
Most scopes today are fully multi-coated. And even if a scope is just coated, sometimes that one layer is better than several layers.
Your reticle is the aiming point (or crosshair) you see when you look through the riflescope.
Each reticle specializes in a different use. Here are the 3 most common scope reticles:
- Duplex: A duplex reticle is the simplest crosshair pattern. Ideal for target shooting or hunting.
- Mil-Dot: Although very similar to the duplex, the dots in the reticle help estimate your target’s distance based on size. Great for law enforcement and military.
- BDC: In a BDC reticle, the reticle estimates bullet drop. Best for long-range shooters.
A reticle can either be mounted on the front or at the rear of the magnification lens.
There are two different focal planes:
A first focal plane (FFP) is where the reticle’s size ADJUSTS as you change magnifications.
A second focal plane (SFP) reticle’s size remains the SAME regardless of what magnification you use.
If you’re planning to do some long-range shooting, go with a FFP reticle. Otherwise, go with a SFP.
These are the knobs responsible for your scope’s vertical and horizontal adjustments.
The windage knob (located on the side) adjusts horizontally (left to right), while the elevation knob (located on the top) adjusts vertically (up and down).
When choosing the best scope for your rifle, make sure to get turrets that are reliable and produce a loud ‘click’ sound.
Sometimes a scope might have a third knob called parallax adjustment turret which helps eliminate parallax.
What is parallax?
Sometimes when you are viewing distant targets, the reticle of your riflescopes appears to move slightly. This is called Parallax. Parallax occurs when your eye is not completely lined up with the reticle of your riflescope which is physically on one of the lenses on the inner tube of your scope.
Most scopes are set to to ensure that at certain shooting distances the cross hair of your reticle is perfectly aligned with the target that you are looking at so that you are not affected by parallax (usually 100 meters). If you are using a factory set scope to shoot at a distance other than what it was set for, parallax can be introduced if your eye is not perfectly centred in the scope and the reticle may appear to be moving.
For most hunting purposes it isn’t worth worrying about parallax because the error is very small, but target shooters or long range hunters (over 500 meters) often choose to solve the parallax problem by buying a scope with an adjustable objective lens or a side parallax focus where you can simply dial in the range you believe the target is from you and you are now parallax free at that range.
In its simplest form:
Minute of Angle (MOA) is a measurement of accuracy that measures 1” per 100 meters while milliradian (MRAD) is another measurement of accuracy that measures 0.36” per 100 meters.
Which one should you use? The straight-up answer:
Either one.
You see, they’re pretty much the same thing.
Just like how MPH and KM/H are interchangeable or Yards and Meters, MOA and MRAD are interchangeable as well. Simply choose one that your comfortable using.
Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the ocular lens.
If you want to save yourself from a bruised eye, I highly recommend getting adequate eye relief. How much should you get? Well…it depends on your firearm’s recoil.
The higher the recoil, the more eye relief you’re going to need. Regardless, stick with this range as a minimum: 3 – 4 inches of eye relief.
This will save you from ‘scope bite’.
